We have had requests to provide some recommendations about our favorite varieties that are traditionally used as Christmas Trees.  We cannot specify the best tree for you because it is very much a matter of taste, but here are a few we like:

Fraser Fir (Abies fraseri)

Fraser fir was named after John Fraser a botanist who explored the Appalachian Mountains in the late 1700′s.  It is characterized by a uniform pyramid-shape and needles that are dark blue-green on the upper side and silvery-white on the underside.  This color contrast gives a particular look of depth that compliments your decorations.  The branches are strong and upward turned which also makes decorating easy.  Needle retention is good and the Fraser Fir has a pleasant scent.

Noble Fir (Abies procera)

The Noble Fir can grow to be 200 feet in height.  Although the one you take home will be significantly smaller, it will still convey strength and power in its appearance.  It has a symmetrical shape and excellent needle retention.  The needles are dark green with two fine white stripes on the underside.  Although much more dense than a Subalpine Fir, The branches are generally spaced well for decoration.

Nordman Fir (Abies nordmanniana)

The Nordman Fir is native to the Caucasus Mountains in the Republic of Georgia and is Europe’s favorite Christmas tree.  Its needles are green and glossy and lay a bit flatter than the Fraser or Noble Firs.  Because the Nordman is not quite as symmetrical as the other firs we mentioned, it tends to have more character.

Subalpine Fir (Abies lasiocarpa)

The Subalpine fir is much less dense than the other varieties mentioned here and therefore are excellent for hanging large ornaments.  They have a long, narrow crown and short stiff branches.  The needles turn upward and are blue-green in color.  Because they are less dense, they tend to be lighter than some of the other varieties and perhaps easier to transport home and set up.

Whatever type of tree you select, here are some care tips you may want to note:

Base Cut

This is a very important step in allowing your tree to draw water.  Just prior to positioning your tree at home (no more than a half hour before being placed in water), cut one inch off the base of the trunk.  This insures the passageways that draw water up into your tree are open.

Tree Stand

Make sure you select a tree stand that is appropriate for the height and weight of your tree.  The water reservoir should allow several inches of the trunk to stand in water.  Make sure your tree is secure in its stand before adding lights or ornaments.

Water

As soon as your tree has been positioned and secured into its stand, fill the reservoir with water.  The tree will initially use a large amount of water.  Make sure the reservoir always remains full of fresh water.  Never allow the water level to fall below the cut end of the trunk.

Temperature

The cooler your tree is kept, the longer it will stay fresh.  Cool temperatures slow down the rate of water loss from your tree.  Remember to close, or redirect any heater vents around your tree.

If you would like a downloadable Christmas Tree Care Sheet please click here.

Poinsettias (euphorbia pulcherrima) are colorful shrubs (not flowers) that are indigenous to Mexico and surrounding regions. Poinsettias; with their solid, marbled, or gently faded reds, pinks, whites, pale yellows, and greens; are a merry touch for any home or business. I think it is important to dispel the oftentimes ill-conceived misconceptions and myths concerning poinsettias. First, as poinsettias are indigenous to Mexico and Central America, they do not like to be watered as much as some would like to assume. Rather than dumping water directly upon the soil (this is an almost guaranteed death sentence), try watering the poinsettia from the bottom. To accomplish this, you can slit the decorative colored foil (with scissors) in the shape of an X at the bottom of the plant. Then, make sure it has a liner approximately one or two inches larger than the actual pot, and fill the liner with water about halfway (or even three quarters of the way) to the top. Watch how much the poinsettia drinks: if it gulps the water up right away, repeat the process. If not, leave it be. Wait a week until you water the liner again. Second, poinsettias are not poisonous. In fact, your child or pet would have to ingest two whole plants to even get a belly ache. The etymology of the New Latin word poinsettia came from the prolific ambassador/botanist who introduced them to North America: Joel Roberto Poinsett. So no, the name does not mean  poisonous as I have often heard; but, the milky sap, which is very similar to the sap of ficus benjamina, can cause moderate irritation if sensitive skin is exposed to it. This is, however, a small price to pay for such mirthful beauty.

Schlumbergera and Rhapsidopsis are native to the tropical rain forests of South America.  In the rain forest, the holiday cactus grows as an epiphyte (a tree perching plant).  Although this strange growing habit is often seen in orchids and bromiliads, holiday cactus are true members of the cactus family.

Water

Because of their growing habit, holiday cactus like to be potted in a soil mix that drains quickly.  Water your plant thoroughly.  Then allow the soil surface to dry to the touch.  Don’t let your holiday cactus dry out completely.  Remember, it’s not a desert cactus and it does not want to become parched dry.

Light

Holiday cactus prefer bright light, or even some direct sun.  Light levels that are too low will make your plant leggy and weak.

Fertilizer

While your holiday cactus is growing, fertilize with a balanced all-purpose, or high acid fertilizer.  Periodically water with distilled water to leach any salt build-up out of the soil.

Trimming

Pinch your plant back after it has finished blooming.  At the end of each branch, hold the last leaflet between the thumb and index finger, twist and pull.  The leaflet should pop right off.  A sharp, clean pair of scissors work just as well.  Trimming will insure a stronger, fuller plant.

Special Notes

The bloom of a holiday cactus is triggered by the length of daylight, and cooler temperatures (40 to 65 degrees) at night.  Plants set bud when they receive 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of dark.  This naturally occurs in the late fall, and the early spring.  Keeping your plant in a location where a house light, or street light shines on it at night, may prevent it from setting bud.

If you would like a downloadable holiday cactus care sheet, please click here.

As an indoor plant specialist, I am often approached by random people asking for advice. ‘Why is my plant dying?’ they will ask in a distraught manner. ‘I am a black thumb. I kill everything; please help me!’

I don’t even have to see the aforementioned plant to enlighten the distressed individual(s) as to the most important tip of interiorscape care. I tell them that 99% of indoor plant deaths are caused by overwatering.

When plant stress is apparent, most people water more; almost impulsively. For instance, if the plant’s leaves fall off, it must need more water. If the plant is wilting, it must need more water, etc. Oftentimes people are so busy paying attention to leaves that they forget about soil (and roots) in the process. This can prove to be harmful and even fatal as excessive watering causes the plant to drown. Think about it: if roots are flooded, they will rot and reject absorption of oxygen, nutrients, and water. When this occurs, leaves will fall off and wilt as roots are too damaged to function properly.

Much of the guess work that pertains to watering is reduced by a soil probe, which is a sharp metal stick with grooves near the end. For the most part, your finger will suffice as a moisture meter in small plants. When this is not possible (for larger plants and trees), insert the metal probe into the soil and pull it out. If dirt falls of, water evenly; however, if dirt is sticky and muddy, do not water! Wait another week and check again.

Please note that probes are a suggestion (a strong recommendation) and not a definite rule. For instance, a hydrangea needs water every day. Also, be aware of other potential factors concerning the declining health of your plant. Has the temperature changed recently? Have you moved your plant into a new location? Does it have adequate lighting? Does it have a pest of some kind? All of these considerations are useful in determining reasons for plant shock and death.