The care of a violet is quite simple and straight forward.   Give them bright light, keep them a bit on the dry side, and be careful to not get water on the leaves. Feeding regularly and a steady temperature above 65 degrees will encourage blooms to form.

Violets are sort of a two for one deal.  Not only are the flowers vibrant, and beautiful, but the foliage is usually compact and showy as well.  The fuzzy, oval leaves range from deep green, to lime green, and often sport streaks of white, or have light pink undersides.

An interesting botanical note:  The white areas on some violet leaves are caused by a virus that destroys the green chlorophyll. Don’t worry though, this virus won’t hurt you or the plant, but it may cause the plant to require more light.

When potting, use a rich, well drained potting mix.  Remove any lower leaves that are dead and brown and bury any stem that is showing.  Gently scrape the part of the stem that will be buried to remove the hard outer crust, and allow roots to freely develop.

You can follow a couple of different options for containers.  You may use a container with drainage holes in the bottom. Another option is to use a “self watering pot”, also known as an “African violet pot”, for planting. These containers consist of two pots nested together. The outer pot is not only decorative, but functions as a water reservoir.  The inner pot, in which the violet is planted, looks solid and lacks any drainage holes.  The rough clay at the base of the inner pot will allow water to slowly pass from the outer pot to the soil and roots.  Test your African violet pot before planting into it.

Add water to the reservoir and insert the inner pot. Wait a day, and check to see how much water has seeped through. There should be a thin film of water across the bottom of the inner pot. Too much water in the bottom and your violet will rot.  If there is no water or moisture at all, then it will wilt and dry out.  Do this test right after buying an African violet pot, and return it if it doesn’t pass.

Lastly, I would like to mention the ease with which you can propagate an African violet.  Take a healthy, fleshy leaf from the plant. Cut the stem off about a quarter of the way up to the leaf, and plant, cut-end down, in well drained soil. In about 3 to 6 weeks you’ll have tiny new leaves growing from the base of the mother leaf.

If treated well, your violet will reward you with regular flowering and healthy leaf growth. There are not many houseplants that bloom as often as violets do.  African violets are a great plant for just about anyone and it is one of my favorites!

Fraser Fir (Abies fraseri)

Fraser fir was named after John Fraser a botanist who explored the Appalachian Mountains in the late 1700′s.  It is characterized by a uniform pyramid-shape and needles that are dark blue-green on the upper side and silvery-white on the underside.  This color contrast gives a particular look of depth that compliments your decorations.  The branches are strong and upward turned which also makes decorating easy.  Needle retention is good and the Fraser Fir has a pleasant scent.

Noble Fir (Abies procera)

The Noble Fir can grow to be 200 feet in height.  Although the one you take home will be significantly smaller, it will still convey strength and power in its appearance.  It has a symmetrical shape and excellent needle retention.  The needles are dark green with two fine white stripes on the underside.  Although much more dense than a Subalpine Fir, The branches are generally spaced well for decoration.

Nordman Fir (Abies nordmanniana)

The Nordman Fir is native to the Caucasus Mountains in the Republic of Georgia and is Europe’s favorite Christmas tree.  Its needles are green and glossy and lay a bit flatter than the Fraser or Noble Firs.  Because the Nordman is not quite as symmetrical as the other firs we mentioned, it tends to have more character.

Subalpine Fir (Abies lasiocarpa)

The Subalpine fir is much less dense than the other varieties mentioned here and therefore are excellent for hanging large ornaments.  They have a long, narrow crown and short stiff branches.  The needles turn upward and are blue-green in color.  Because they are less dense, they tend to be lighter than some of the other varieties and perhaps easier to transport home and set up.

Whatever type of tree you select, here are some care tips you may want to note:

Base Cut

This is a very important step in allowing your tree to draw water.  Just prior to positioning your tree at home (no more than a half hour before being placed in water), cut one inch off the base of the trunk.  This insures the passageways that draw water up into your tree are open.

Tree Stand

Make sure you select a tree stand that is appropriate for the height and weight of your tree.  The water reservoir should allow several inches of the trunk to stand in water.  Make sure your tree is secure in its stand before adding lights or ornaments.

Water

As soon as your tree has been positioned and secured into its stand, fill the reservoir with water.  The tree will initially use a large amount of water.  Make sure the reservoir always remains full of fresh water.  Never allow the water level to fall below the cut end of the trunk.

Temperature

The cooler your tree is kept, the longer it will stay fresh.  Cool temperatures slow down the rate of water loss from your tree.  Remember to close, or redirect any heater vents around your tree.

If you would like a downloadable Christmas Tree Care Sheet please click here.

Care Sheet for Amaryllis.

Water

Because of their growing habit, holiday cactus like to be potted in a soil mix that drains quickly.  Water your plant thoroughly.  Then allow the soil surface to dry to the touch.  Don’t let your holiday cactus dry out completely.  Remember, it’s not a desert cactus and it does not want to become parched dry.

Light

Holiday cactus prefer bright light, or even some direct sun.  Light levels that are too low will make your plant leggy and weak.

Fertilizer

While your holiday cactus is growing, fertilize with a balanced all-purpose, or high acid fertilizer.  Periodically water with distilled water to leach any salt build-up out of the soil.

Trimming

Pinch your plant back after it has finished blooming.  At the end of each branch, hold the last leaflet between the thumb and index finger, twist and pull.  The leaflet should pop right off.  A sharp, clean pair of scissors work just as well.  Trimming will insure a stronger, fuller plant.

Special Notes

The bloom of a holiday cactus is triggered by the length of daylight, and cooler temperatures (40 to 65 degrees) at night.  Plants set bud when they receive 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of dark.  This naturally occurs in the late fall, and the early spring.  Keeping your plant in a location where a house light, or street light shines on it at night, may prevent it from setting bud.

If you would like a downloadable holiday cactus care sheet, please click here.

I don’t even have to see the aforementioned plant to enlighten the distressed individual(s) as to the most important tip of interiorscape care. I tell them that 99% of indoor plant deaths are caused by overwatering.

When plant stress is apparent, most people water more; almost impulsively. For instance, if the plant’s leaves fall off, it must need more water. If the plant is wilting, it must need more water, etc. Oftentimes people are so busy paying attention to leaves that they forget about soil (and roots) in the process. This can prove to be harmful and even fatal as excessive watering causes the plant to drown. Think about it: if roots are flooded, they will rot and reject absorption of oxygen, nutrients, and water. When this occurs, leaves will fall off and wilt as roots are too damaged to function properly.

Much of the guess work that pertains to watering is reduced by a soil probe, which is a sharp metal stick with grooves near the end. For the most part, your finger will suffice as a moisture meter in small plants. When this is not possible (for larger plants and trees), insert the metal probe into the soil and pull it out. If dirt falls of, water evenly; however, if dirt is sticky and muddy, do not water! Wait another week and check again.

Please note that probes are a suggestion (a strong recommendation) and not a definite rule. For instance, a hydrangea needs water every day. Also, be aware of other potential factors concerning the declining health of your plant. Has the temperature changed recently? Have you moved your plant into a new location? Does it have adequate lighting? Does it have a pest of some kind? All of these considerations are useful in determining reasons for plant shock and death.

I often hear, “the plant has gotten too big for the pot,” when most of the time this is not the case. Typically the pot size is fine – the plant just needs to be pruned. Pruning your plants encourages new growth and ultimately gives you much fuller, healthier plants.

Even in a plant’s natural habitat, pruning is a regular occurrence. As vines or branches grow too long and heavy, they break and fall off. This is nature’s way of pruning.

When you purchase a new plant, consider pruning out some of its interior branches or vines. A new plant will naturally lose leaves as it acclimates to a new home, but some early pruning can help prevent this. Even if you have great light, it’s probably not as perfect as the greenhouse setting where your plant started its life. Steps like healthy pruning can help a plant during this transition.

Remember, where ever you make a pruning cut, a new leaf or branch will grow. Don’t be afraid to prune, prune, prune, because plants love it.

Ask our Cactus & Tropicals’ plant care experts how often you should prune your plants. Don’t forget to check back to learn how to repot your plants when they truly need more space.

Select a container with or without drainage holes.  Plant bulbs (pointed end up) so that about a third of the bulb is showing.  Bulbs may be spaced as close as 1/2 inch.  For a traditional look, you may cover the surface with gravel or moss.  Water well.

Light

Shoots will start growing in a few days.  Keep your paperwhites in as much bright, direct sun as possible to help ensure the foliage stays stocky and strong.  Move to indirect light when flowers appear to prolong bloom.

Watering

Keep the soil somewhat moist, but never soggy.  Allow the surface of the soil to become dry in between watering.  If you are growing paperwhite bulbs in gravel and water, keep the water level just below the base of the bulb.  This will prevent the bulb from rotting.

Special Notes

Paperwhite bulbs are difficult to rebloom.  They should be enjoyed for the blooming season and then discarded.

For a downloadable paperwhite care sheet, please click here.

Potting

Choose a pot with a drainage hole that will allow 1-2 inches of clearance between the sides of the bulb and the pot.  Plant the bulb so that the top 1/3 of the bulb is above the level of the potting soil.  The soil level should be 1 inch below the rim of the pot.  Firm the soil around the roots.  After planting, water thoroughly with warm water.

Light & Water

Place the pot in a warm location.  Water thoroughly with warm water, and take care not to water into the top of the bulb.  The soil should only be slightly moist to the touch, and should never be soggy.  When shoots appear, place into a warm, bright location.  When flowering, move into indirect light to prolong bloom.  As the plant grows tall, gently push a thin stake into the soil and loosely tie a ribbon or string around the shoots to provide additional support.

Post Bloom Care

After your amaryllis finishes blooming, cut the flower stalk(s) to the base.  The leaves will continue to nourish the bulb and should not be removed at this time.  Return the plant to bright light and water regularly.  Fertilize once a month with an all-purpose fertilizer.

Reflowering

The potted bulb must be kept healthy by regular watering and monthly fertilizing.  In the fall, place your plant in a cool spot (around 50 degrees) for about 6 weeks.  Water sparingly, but do not allow to dry out completely.  After the cooling period, move your amaryllis to a warm sunny location.  Keep soil moist but not soggy.  Once the bulb begins to grow, it will take 6-8 weeks to flower.

If you would like a downloadable amaryllis care sheet, please click here.